We're officially jealous. The residents of Walnut Street east of Grove have an epicurean treasure in their own backyard. And while the neighbors who have fast become regulars might want to keep this gem to themselves, the word is already out. Culinariane, located at the corner of Walnut and Pine, has been booked every Saturday night since it opened back in February. The space with its elegant pendant lights, original art work and incredible antique silverware bares no resemblance to the former Kimiko's. Transformed into an inviting space, it has the appeal of a fine dining room without any of the forced formality. From the minute you sit down, Culinariane feels different than other restaurants in Montclair. Your server brings you over an amuse bouche (...just a little something from the chef) and the meal starts off with a bang. One night it was an adorable mushroom burger on toasted bread disc topped with guacamole, another night purple potatoes with caviar. Then there is the bread, except instead of the ubiquitous crusty Tuscan loaves, it's a surprise. Tiny croissants, glistening with a subtle sweetness --a brush of simple syrup -- are placed on your plate with silver tongs. We overheard a couple raving about them and a bag of croissants appeared at their table to take home (service is very attentive, polished and cordial).

The appetizers we ordered were equally exquisite -- cornmeal crusted oysters matched perfectly with a horseradish cream, and a jumbo lump crabcake (lots of crabmeat) served with a zingy mustard remoulade. For a main course, truffle lovers can't go wrong with the pan seared sea scallops and meaty mushroom ragout laced with fragrant white truffle oil, or the filet mignon in port wine reduction with a dreamy lobster sweet potato hash.

Chef Ariane Duarte has a knack for creating beautiful food (see the sashimi tuna "flower" with crispy wontons and wasabi crème fraiche) that isn't overly fussy. On a return trip, we caught her in the kitchen making one of her faves, a wild king salmon with grilled radicchio, Tuscan white beans and black olive vinaigrette. Culinariane, at 33 Walnut Street, is open Wednesday to Saturday, from 5:30-10 pm. Reservations needed for Friday and Saturday. In May, Culinariane will begin serving Sunday brunch. For the menu...

Jumbo Lump Crabcake, Grain Mustard Remoulade, Mache
14

Sashimi Tuna Flower, Crispy Wontons, Pickled Cucumber, Wasabi Crème Fraiche
14

Cornmeal Crusted Oysters, Micro Greens, Horseradish Cream
12

Toasted Gnocchi, Vegetable Ragout, Tomato Fondue, Crispy Leeks
12

Salad of Baby Greens, Honey Infused Goat Cheese, Aged Balsamic Vinaigrette
10

Endive and Baby Arugula, Ruby Red Grapefruit, Toasted Pinenuts,
Sherry Shallot Vinaigrette
10

Dinner

Ravioli of Butternut Squash, Gorgonzola, Walnut Cream
16

Oven Roasted Sea bass, Peperonata Risotto, Micro Greens
22

Wild King Salmon, Grilled Radicchio, Tuscan White Beans,
Black Olive Vinaigrette
22

Pan Seared Sea Scallops, Imported Mushrooms Ragout, White Truffle Oil
24

French Cut Chicken Breast, Moroccan Apricot Stew, Herb Quinoa
21

Caraway Rubbed Pork Chop, Poblano Gratin, Caramelized Apples
24

Grilled Filet Mignon, Lobster Sweet Potato Hash, Port Wine Reduction
28

March 27, 2006